Live to Eat

A Sophisticated Indonesian Dining Experience

I don’t usually hunt for an Indonesian culinary experience in high end restaurants. I believe that the best Indo food can be found in warung(s) (Traditional street food tents), gerobak (wagons) and humble traditional small restaurants. My favorite Indonesian restaurants chain such as Bakmi GM (is that Chinese or Indo? Chisindo?) or Nasi Padang Sederhana and Satay Khas Senayan are as ‘posh’ as I get to dining out with Indo food as a vocal point. Oh wait…wait… I probably spoke typed to soon. Lara Djonggrang was a high end Indonesian restaurant that I enjoyed a couple of times. But as my foodie mother would say about the atmospheric and slightly ‘eerie’ restaurant “We are paying for the ambience”.

Another reason why I don’t really favor high end indo food is the price. As an Indonesian, growing up with Indo food all my life, I find it hard to justify ordering high end expensive sayur lodeh (Soup with coconut broth) or tempe (soy bean cake). Lodeh is lodeh and tempe is tempe. It shouldn’t cost as much as a salmon or steak. If I was forced tempted to go the semi high end route, it’s usually because of a specialty in the menu such as bebek crispy (Crispy duck) or ayam betutu (Balinese chicken dish with aromatic spices). Don’t shoot me patriots! It’s just how my stingy brain functions.

So what was I doing in Tesate Menteng the other day? Ramadhan is not only a month for devotion but also the month for Bukbers (Buka Bersama/ Communal Iftar or eating after sundown that usually involves dining out in a big group). And due to the location, Tesate Menteng was chosen. I had my apprehensions. Rumor has it that Tesate was not only overpriced, but food was okay and service so –so. I’m pleased to say that my fears never manifested. For one, the place sold me from the start.  Subjectively, it is so near my place that I give it an 8 before setting foot on the place (Ramadhan Jakarta traffic close to Buka = Hell!). And as I arrived, a solid 8, 5. The first floor where I was seated is semi open air but refreshingly cool. With its glass to glass walls and easy breezy ambiance, patrons are transported to a pseudo Bali feel. If you have been to one of the posh-er cafes in Seminyak Street, Bali, you’ll know what I mean. None of the wayang murals or batik decor that usually screams tacky at most Indonesian restaurants. Tesate is modern, sophisticated yet cozy. And as the night approaches, the lighting really gives Tesate Menteng a very international feel.

(Picture from their Facebook page)

 Our reserved table overlooks the Sam Ratulangi street. One of the nicer Jakarta streets. I swear, if I squint my eyes, I can almost see the beach and not the Menteng gas station. But of course, Indonesian culture still shines through (or else what’s the point right? Yay patriots!) in the form of the Menu that is made to look like the fan that a traditional satay maker would use to fan the satay sizzling on the traditional grill. But what took my breath away was the live gamelan that started halfway through our meal. Live gamelan is not a big thing of course. Many Indonesian restaurants use gamelan as a form of entertainment. But with the modern backdrop, it’s a as if gamelans are now accepted to perform in a sophisticated cosmopolitan setting that is usually reserved for jazz or classical music.

I don’t know about the service in Tesate Plaza Senayan and Tesate Pacific Place, but service here was good. There were 15 of us dining and all our orders came prompt and correct. The waiters and waitresses are well trained and very helpful. They take our order using what seems to be a blackberry. They did mix up my dessert order, but understandable since we were a large group. And they quickly remedied the situation no questions asked.

Now on to the food itself. As with Indonesian dining, we ordered many dishes to share. Yes, it is expensive and can seem a bit intimidating. Was it worth it? Well yes and no. Taste wise, yes Tesate has some awesome dishes. Do order the Rujak Pengantin Salad with its sour yet savory dressing that is a perfect start to a meal. The lumpia petruk, in my opinion is very reminiscent to authentic Lumpia Semarang. The unique musky taste of bamboo shoots (not everyone’s cup of tea, yet I rather enjoy), fresh sweet prawns, and the slightly spicy dipping sauce is delightful. But my favorite appetizer has got to be the uniquely named Tahu Udang Berontak (Rebel Prawn Tofu). I love me some crispy tahu! And this one is crrrriiisspy. It is stuffed to the brim with mushroom and prawn filling making it crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside.

(Pictures from jenzcorner.net)

For the mains we ordered the Sate Kambing (mutton satay), Sate Ayam (chicken satay), sayur lodeh, Sate Bebek (Duck Satay), Tumis Pucuk Labu (Stir fried Chayote leaf with egg and sambal) and tahu telor (Fried Tofu wrapped in Egg with dark sauce). Verdict on the satays? Could be improved. The sate kambing was tender and juicy. The peanut sauce for the sate ayam is full of flavor. However, they didn’t strike me as anything special. Delicious, but for a place called TeSATE, I had bigger dreams. The Sate Bebek was not a favorite. It was slightly too dry and the flavor were not memorable.

The big stand out for me were surprisingly the veggie dishes. The Tumis Pucuk Labu was a very nice discovery. I had to Google what chayote leaf was (a chayote is a small pumpkin. Who knew?!) and was very pleased with the taste. It’s what I would describe as bittersweet. The medium spicy sambal (chilli sauce) is what ties the fried egg and leaves together to create a very distinctive dish. Another joy was the Sayur Lodeh. Apparently lodeh is not only lodeh at Tesate. US ribs strips are added to the mix of veggies giving it that extra richness. The coconut broth is very light but full of flavor.  It’s one of the best lodehs I’ve ever tasted. Even my mom in law’s lodeh come a close second. As for the tahu telor, I find it to be a very similar to Sate Khas Senayan’s one. And I joyfully discovered that Sate Khas and Tesate belong to the same group. As with its counterpart, this Tahu Telor brings such comfort. The familiar taste of fried tofu, the smokiness of the fried peanuts and the dark sweet sauce is a safe yet sound choice.

(Photo from citydirectory.co.id)

(Picture from id.openrice.com)

Indonesian desserts don’t usually appeal to me. But it was Ramadhan and I had a sweet tooth to indulge. The Es Cendol Durian (rice jelly, coconut milk and durian paste) is adequate. Although I had to scoop off the amply served durian dollop sitting majestically on top of the cendol. Yes people, I’m an exclusive few who despises durian. Due to the chaotic nature of our Bukber (15 very hungry women moms are never easy customers), I didn’t get a chance to ask the waiter to customize my order and remove the dollop of durian. I also ordered hot tea which can be refilled as many times you want. This is another good thing about Tesate. Instead of tea bags, the tea leaves are held in a special holder. It is then dropped inside the cup and the tea flavor is dispersed by pouring hot water. Remove the holder after water has darkened to your taste. A waiter would happily refill your hot water many times over. I ordered mineral water but found it more cheap practical to keep refilling my tea.

(Picture from id.openrice.com)

So again, was it worth the high end price? As a foodie I would say yes. But for those who expect big portions to tally up with prices, I wouldn’t want to assume. Tesate’s portions are by no means small, but not huge either. An exception for the desserts which is actually be better shared between two people. My group of 15 ordered almost two of everything to satisfy our hunger. But again, we were fasting the whole day. So for those of you Indonesian foodies who are looking for something to update your culinary experience, Tesate is a very good start.

PS: I’m photo grabbing (but referenced of course) due to the fact that it’s a hassle to stop and take pictures of the food when you are with party of 15. Again, I’ll visit Tesate soon and update.

Final Judgment: Splurge a little and give it a try! Better yet, take a tourist with you. See it through their eyes how delicious and rich our dishes are. Merdeka!

Price for Satisfaction: We paid roughly Rp. 200.000 each. It’s actually the standard price range for a high end restaurant in Jakarta.

Trivia: Love the vintage ginger candy they give out with your change and bill. Nice touch!

Notes: Do reserve for immediate seating. Parking space is quite small so be prepared.

Overall 1-10: 7,5

Tesate Menteng

  Jl. Sam Ratulangi No. 39 Menteng Jakarta Pusat

Tel: 021-31931250

 Website: http://www.sarirasagrup.com/menutesate.html

Korean BBQ at its best!

It doesn’t get any better than Tobak when it comes to great Korean BBQ. I don’t claim to be an expert on authentic Korean food, but what I know is, when it comes to Korean BBQ, you want your money’s worth. Yep! A decent K-BBQ can be quite pricey in this town. Especially when you are looking for top quality beef for your Bulgogi (thinly sliced marinated beef), Seng Gal Bi (Beef Ribs) or Wu Sol (tongue so delicate that they practically melt like butter in your mouth). Tobak takes great pride in serving top quality beef. Be adventurous and order their famous raw meat (Yuk hoe). The combination of fresh raw meat, red as paint, with crystal like sliced pears and secret sauce (sesame oil and something else) will play with your taste buds in a “(I’m eating raw meat) this is so wrong and yet so right” kinda feeling.

Another point that you should always consider when enjoying a Korean feast is their quality and quantity of side dishes (Banchan) that comes as a compliment to any meal. Keep in mind that the price you are paying for your dish includes the cost for the Banchan. Thus my logic is, the more Banchan, the more worth it your meal is (Yes yes I sound very stingy :P ). Tobak gives you a vast variety of Banchan no matter what you order. From two types of Kimchi, Pajeon (Korean pancake), salads, veggies (Namul) etc, each with their own unique taste to compliment your chosen main dish.  

Don’t make your K-BBQ a dry occasion. To balance out the meatiness of your meal, do try the mild spicy and savory Sundubu Jigae (Seafood and tofu soup). Or for hard core spicy lovers, let Kimchi Jigae’s (Kimchi Soup) spiciness and sourness breathe life into your meal.  The Jap Chae (Stir Fried Rice noodle with veggies) and Kimchi Jeon (Kimchi Pancake dipped in sauce) are also good solid tasting side dishes that don’t come as a Banchan but worth ordering. And what’s a good K-BBQ without hot rice steamed? Tobak takes special care in their steamed white rice. Their rice is individually steamed with red beans in their own individual pots giving it an extra oomph of taste than your regular white rice. This fact, according to an avid K-drama friend who is usually my K-BBQ partner, is a sign of authentic Korean food.

On to drinks, Koreans love their alcoholic drinks. And a K-BBQ is best enjoyed with light and cool taste of Koreans fave drink, soju. But don’t let the airy taste fool you. Soju is stronger than sake and much more deadly than you think. Served in tiny shot-like glasses (but they are not shots, so by heavens! SIP don’t GULP!), soju will alarmingly catch you off guard.

Rightyo, what else am I missing? Ambience and décor. Hmmm… a humble presence on the outside compared to it’s more stylized neighboring Korean Restaurants that also thrives on the Walter Monginsidi Street. Inside, it gives out a very family restaurant feel with its simple and functional décor. A few Korean tidbits here and there such as paintings and souvenirs, but the vocal point of the place is the giant screen which usually broadcast golf tournaments. Its laidback enough for families to eat with jeans and t-shirts, and also, judging from the onslaught of Korean businessman after office hours, an ideal and no nonsense place to enjoy home cooked meal and a good stiff drink after a long days work.

With all Korean Restaurant, service is another important aspect for repeat offenders patrons. Korean BBQ is all about the BBQ after all. So how the staff grill your dish on the table, and how they go about catering to your every whim is crucial. I give Tobak a 9 for their excellent service. The waitresses are alert and friendly. Ocha glasses are always refilled promptly and banchan refills are done without judgment (I once asked for a Kimchi refill… Thrice!). The hostess is usually a charming ahjuma (auntie) that will make a point to stop by and say hello.   

Final Judgement: One of Live to Eat’s favorite restaurant.

Price for Satifaction: Very satisfactory. It’s on the very pricey side I admit. It’s not a place you would go to everyday, but make an event out of when you do go.

Stand Out Menu: Their raw meat is delicious. Hands down.

Trivia:

-          Do it the Korean way and make lil’ sandwiches with your rice, meat, garlic and Gochujang (Fermented non spicy chilli paste) wrapped in lettuce or sesame leafs that are amply provided.

-          Don’t forget to order your Nurungji (The crisp thin layer of rice left on the bottom of the pot when cooking rice which is eaten as a snack) from your rice pot and eat them with kimchi for an added excitement.

Overall 1-10: 9

Note: Make a reservation for immediate seating. It’s not fun to wait and be hungry while the whole place smells like grilled beef.

Tobak Korean Restaurant

Phone: (021) 725-1135
Fax: (021) 7280-0753
Jl. Wolter Monginsidi No. 30
Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta

Business Hours:
11:00 - 22:00